Discover Terre-de-Haut, Les Saintes
Les Saintes Bay is a member of the Most Beautiful Bays in the World Club, at the heart of the Saintes archipelago south of mainland Guadeloupe. Terre-de-Haut is an island of about 5 km² with a unique character — Creole, Mediterranean and Caribbean all at once. This guide gathers the essentials for planning your stay: ferries, beaches, restaurants, activities and practical tips from a host who has lived here for over ten years.
How to get to Terre-de-Haut
Terre-de-Haut has a tiny airstrip with a very short runway but no scheduled flights (private planes and air taxis only). In practice, you arrive by ferry from mainland Guadeloupe, and that's where the change of pace begins.
Three embarkation ports: Trois-Rivières (the fastest, a 20–25 minute crossing, daily sailings by operators including CTM Deher and Karu'Ferry; about a 1-hour drive from Pôle Caraïbes airport), Pointe-à-Pitre (about 1 hour, from the Bergevin ferry terminal a few minutes from the airport; FRS Express des Îles sailings, mostly in season) and Saint-François (fewer departures and a longer crossing, sometimes via Marie-Galante). Operators and timetables change from season to season: always check the operator's website before booking.
Fares vary by port and operator: expect roughly €25–55 round-trip per adult. Book ahead in high season (December to April): morning ferries fill up fast. On arrival, you disembark directly at the village quay of Terre-de-Haut, a 10-minute walk from Villa Kazarev.
Iconic beaches
Pompierre Beach
The most famous, an almost closed crescent sheltered from the swell by the Roches Percées islets (a protected site where motorboats are banned from the bay). Pale sand, calm shallow water, ideal for children and lounging. A small snack bar on site and free-roaming iguanas. About 25 minutes on foot from the village, or 5 minutes by electric cart.
Pain de Sucre Cove
Our favourite. A small sheltered cove at the foot of the famous volcanic peak of the same name. Crystal-clear water perfect for snorkelling — you'll spot turtles, parrotfish and sometimes rays. 5-minute trail from the parking area, 20 minutes on foot from Villa Kazarev.
Grande Anse Beach
A long, wild Atlantic-facing beach 14 minutes on foot from the villa. Exposed to swell and currents: swimming is prohibited. But the setting is exceptional — palm trees, golden sand, few people — for a walk or a picnic.
Anse Crawen
A clothing-optional beach at the end of the Bois-Joli road (about 3 km from the pier), then down a short path. Wild, quiet, sheltered turquoise water and good snorkelling.
Anse Rodrigue
A small sheltered cove south of Grande Anse, about 2 km from the village. Calm, good for swimming and snorkelling; sea turtles are sometimes spotted here.
Food and restaurants
Saintois cuisine blends traditional Creole with maritime influences. A few must-tries:
Tourment d'amour: the island's signature pastry, a small coconut tartlet sold by local women on the pier when ferries arrive. Try one on day one.
Court-bouillon de poisson, accras de morue, colombo de poulet: the Creole classics you'll find in every village restaurant.
Restaurants: the village is home to most of the island's tables, from Creole cooking by the water to more creative spots with bay views, such as Couleurs du Monde. Book the day before in high season — most are a 5-minute walk from Villa Kazarev.
Groceries and provisions: the village's mini-markets and bakeries are enough for self-catering (shorter hours on Sundays). Fresh fish straight from the fishermen on the pier in late morning.
Activities on the island
Fort Napoléon
Built in the 19th century (from 1844), now a museum of Les Saintes history (with models of the 1782 naval battle) surrounded by an exotic cactus garden full of iguanas. 360° panoramic view over the archipelago from the ramparts. Open mornings only (roughly 9am–12:30pm): allow 1 to 1.5 hours for the visit and a 20–30 minute uphill walk from the village.
Le Chameau hike
Highest point of the island at 309 m. About 45 minutes to 1 hour uphill from the village along a steep narrow road, up to the Tour Modèle, a 19th-century military watchtower. 360° views over the archipelago, Basse-Terre, Marie-Galante and, on clear days, Dominica. Best done early morning to avoid the heat.
Snorkelling and diving
The seabed of Les Saintes is rich and fragile (Pompierre bay and Pain de Sucre are protected sites). Several dive clubs in the village offer try dives and exploration dives, notably to Sec Pâté, a famous drop-off between Les Saintes and Basse-Terre. Snorkelling from shore: Pain de Sucre, Anse Crawen and Pompierre are the best spots.
Electric golf cart
The island's iconic mode of transport, rented at the port (book ahead in high season: they go fast). Free charging at Villa Kazarev's charging station. Perfect for a 2-3 hour island loop with beach stops.
Day trip to Terre-de-Bas
Neighbouring island reachable by shuttle (10–15 min by sea). Wilder, more authentic, less touristy. Lovely day combining a hike and lunch in the fishing village.
When to visit
Dry season (December to April) — recommended: temperatures 25-30°C, little rain, calm sea. High tourist traffic: book ferries and accommodation in advance. End-of-year holidays and Easter week are the peaks.
Wet season (June to November): similar temperatures (27-32°C), brief near-daily showers (often late in the day), softer rates and quieter islands. May-June offers an excellent compromise. Hurricane season officially runs from June to November, peaking from August to October — keep an eye on Météo-France forecasts.
Off-peak: the villa is still pleasant, the village lively, restaurants open but quieter. Our favourite windows: early May and late October (keeping an eye on the weather).
Practical tips
Currency: euro, as everywhere in Guadeloupe. Cards widely accepted but bring some cash for small shops and the pier vendors.
Connectivity: decent 4G/5G in the village, weaker on the heights. WiFi rated 10/10 at Villa Kazarev for remote work.
Health: a medical office and pharmacy in the village. For serious emergencies, helicopter evacuation to the CHU in Pointe-à-Pitre.
Getting around: electric golf cart, scooter or walking. No public bus (minibuses offer island tours). Distances are short (max 5 km to cross the island). Villa Kazarev is reachable on foot from the port in 10 minutes (moderate uphill).
Safety: Terre-de-Haut is one of the safest destinations in the Caribbean. Theft is rare, atmosphere is family-friendly.
Water and environment: limited resources on the island — save water, sort waste, respect marine wildlife.
Go further
Rent a Villa-Bungalow in Terre-de-Haut
Villa Kazarev is a sea-view rental ideally located on the heights with a panoramic view of Les Saintes Bay, 10 minutes on foot from the port and 14 minutes from Grande Anse beach. Private pool, sea view terrace, free EV charging station and 10/10 WiFi. Rated 9.5/10 by 67 travellers on Booking.com.