Discover Terre-de-Haut, Les Saintes
One of the world's most beautiful bays according to UNESCO, the Saintes archipelago lies south of mainland Guadeloupe. Terre-de-Haut is a 6 km² island with a unique character — Creole, Mediterranean and Caribbean all at once. This guide gathers the essentials for planning your stay: ferries, beaches, restaurants, activities and practical tips from a host who has lived here for over ten years.
How to get to Terre-de-Haut
There is no airport on Terre-de-Haut. Access is exclusively by ferry from mainland Guadeloupe, and that's where the change of pace begins.
Two companies operate the routes: L'Express des Îles and Brudey Frères. Three main embarkation ports: Trois-Rivières (the fastest, 20-minute crossing, most convenient by car from Pôle Caraïbes airport), Pointe-à-Pitre (1 hour, but direct departure from downtown) and Saint-François (45 minutes, useful if you're staying in southern Grande-Terre).
Budget €25-35 round-trip per adult. Book the day before in high season (December to April): morning ferries fill up fast. On arrival, you disembark directly at the village quay of Terre-de-Haut, a 10-minute walk from Villa Kazarev.
Iconic beaches
Pompierre Beach
The most famous, a perfect crescent protected by the Cabrits islets. White sand, shallow water, ideal for children and lounging. A few food trucks and shaded parking. 25 minutes on foot from the village, or 5 minutes by electric cart.
Pain de Sucre Cove
Our favourite. A small sheltered cove at the foot of the famous volcanic peak of the same name. Crystal-clear water perfect for snorkelling — you'll spot turtles, parrotfish and sometimes rays. 5-minute trail from the parking area, 20 minutes on foot from Villa Kazarev.
Grande Anse Beach
Wild beach 14 minutes on foot from the villa. More exposed to swell (swim cautiously depending on the season), but exceptional setting: palm trees, golden sand, few people. Ideal at sunset.
Anse Crawen
Optional naturist beach, reachable in 30 minutes by a coastal trail. Wild, quiet, turquoise water. The trail offers spectacular viewpoints over the bay.
Anse Rodrigue
A small intimate cove 2 km from the villa. Prime spot for spotting sea turtles in the late afternoon.
Food and restaurants
Saintois cuisine blends traditional Creole with maritime influences. A few must-tries:
Tourment d'amour: the island's signature pastry, a small coconut tartlet sold by local women on the pier when ferries arrive. Try one on day one.
Court-bouillon de poisson, accras de morue, colombo de poulet: the Creole classics you'll find in every village restaurant.
Restaurant picks: Couleurs du Monde and Le Triangle for fusion cuisine with sea views, Ti'Kaz' La for authentic beachside, Kafé de l'Anse for brunch and pastries. Book the day before in high season — most are a 5-minute walk from Villa Kazarev.
Groceries and provisions: the Casino mini-market in the village, open 7 days a week, is sufficient for self-catering. Fresh bread at Le Pain au Chocolat every morning. Fresh fish directly on the pier in late morning.
Activities on the island
Fort Napoléon
Built in the 19th century, now a history museum and botanical garden. 360° panoramic view over the archipelago from the ramparts. Allow 1h30 for the visit, 30 minutes uphill walk from the village.
Le Chameau hike
Highest point of the island at 309 m. 1h30 round-trip trail, moderate elevation, ending at the old Vauban tower with sweeping views of Marie-Galante, Dominica and La Désirade on clear days. Best done early morning to avoid the heat.
Snorkelling and diving
The waters of Les Saintes are a protected marine sanctuary. Several dive clubs in the village run day trips: Pain de Sucre, Sec Pâté, the Southwest Point. Rates: €60-80 per exploration dive. Snorkelling from shore: Pain de Sucre and Anse Crawen are the best spots.
Electric golf cart
The island's iconic mode of transport. Daily rental €50-70, free to recharge at Villa Kazarev's charging station. Perfect for a 2-3 hour island loop with beach stops.
Day trip to Terre-de-Bas
Neighbouring island reachable by shuttle (15 min by sea). Wilder, more authentic, less touristy. Lovely day combining a hike and lunch in the fishing village.
When to visit
Dry season (December to April) — recommended: temperatures 25-30°C, little rain, calm sea. High tourist traffic: book ferries and accommodation in advance. End-of-year holidays and Easter week are the peaks.
Wet season (June to November): similar temperatures (27-32°C), brief near-daily showers (often late in the day), softer rates and quieter islands. May-June and September-October offer an excellent compromise. Hurricane season runs August to October — keep an eye on weather, though direct passes over Les Saintes are rare.
Off-peak: the villa is still pleasant, the village lively, restaurants open but quieter. Our favourite windows: early May and late October.
Practical tips
Currency: euro, as everywhere in Guadeloupe. Cards widely accepted but bring some cash for food trucks and the pier market.
Connectivity: decent 4G/5G in the village, weaker on the heights. WiFi rated 10/10 at Villa Kazarev for remote work.
Health: a medical office and pharmacy in the village. For serious emergencies, helicopter evacuation to the CHU in Pointe-à-Pitre.
Getting around: electric golf cart, scooter or walking. No bus. Distances are short (max 5 km to cross the island). Villa Kazarev is reachable on foot from the port in 10 minutes (moderate uphill).
Safety: Terre-de-Haut is one of the safest destinations in the Caribbean. Theft is rare, atmosphere is family-friendly.
Water and environment: limited resources on the island — save water, sort waste, respect marine wildlife.
Stay at Villa Kazarev
Ideally located on the heights with a panoramic view of Les Saintes Bay, 10 minutes on foot from the port and 14 minutes from Grande Anse beach. Private pool, sea view terrace, free EV charging station and 10/10 WiFi. Rated 9.3/10 by 56 travellers on Booking.com.